Friday, 30 September 2011

Day 83 – 27.6.2011 Rob's Magic - there are more than shock absorbers

Already in the Tsavo National Park our fridge did not work correct. We pack our groceries in the fridge in JJ’s kitchen and visit Rob's Magic, where we already purchased new shock absorbers a few days ago.

Our Soleonid is broken, the part which ensures that the second battery which powers the fridge with energy, is indeed loaded, but simultaneously prevents dasss the refrigerator empties the starter battery. As tiny as the replacement is so high is the price, 400 € / +- R 4000, but we have no chance, another victim of the bad roads of East Africa.

The new system comes from Switzerland to Australia and now we even have a display in the car, indicating that everything is in order. Luckily, the fridge is fine, we clean it and then fill it up again at Nakumatt.

The weather is moderate, the camp site a muddy field, we reserve the luxurious room for one more night. To make things worse one of our two laptops does not work any more…..

37 km, 22 °, cold, rainy
KSH 3500 (double room) in the Jungle Junction, Nairobi

Tags: Jungle Junction, Nairobi, Rob's Magic, Tsavo National Park, JJ's, Nakumatt

Link zum deutschen Afrika Reisebericht von Beetee und Fred

Day 82 – 26.6.2011 A scorpion and the flood - back to Nairobi

The first round on the Ndololo Campsite shows in the morning, the lion is still there, but again I fail to make a photo, he's gone too fast. In the night we heard him several times, loud arguments with the hyenas, the guy is strong and does not give up.

But we give up, the smell is too much, even though we are 100 meters away. Unfortunately, the only Public Campsite in Tsavo West is the Ndololo Campsite, and outside there in Voi, as in Mtito Andei, no chance for camping. In the toilet, I discover a giant scorpion, luckily one of the rather less dangerous ones, with thick claws and thin tail, its bite is very painful, but not so venomous, but the size of almost 10 centimeters can shudder one.

We drive, of course, not without seeing dozens of Ellies, to the Voi gate, we want to return to Nairobi, than northwards to the Samburu and Buffalo Springs National Reserve. So once again driving, driving, driving. As we are near Nairobi, it begins to pour like hell. Two hours we need through the city, although it is Sunday evening. Everywhere torrents come down from the hills, it is impossible to cross the street on foot.

Earlier we reserved a room at the Jungle Junction, well knowing that even if the rain would stop, the campsite would be a muddy pool. That was the last room they had and there are other people who now sleep in the living room of the Backpackers on the couch, but still better than in the garden, the camp site is completely under water. So we get into the luxury of a private shower and toilet.

In the living room of JJ's they even started a fire. Our evening meal is quickly prepared, the community kitchen is overflowing, all are in it today, not surprisingly, it’s good that our freezer section offers some ready made chicken stew. Tired we go into our "honeymoon suite", we enjoy a really hot shower and sleep very early.

Km 466, 9 hrs, 26 °, sun, heavy rain in Nairobi
KSH 3500 (double room) in the Jungle Junction, Nairobi

Tags: Tsavo West National Park, Mtito Andei, Voi, Samburu, Buffalo Springs, Ndololo Camp Site, Jungle Junction, Nairobi, JJ's

Link zum deutschen Afrika Reisebericht

Day 81 – 25.6.2011 With the lion on the camp site in Tsavo West - Part 2

Before the first mini buses are coming, I want to see the lion, tonight was quiet in his corner, but he is very excited, as I get closer, he growls and disappears into a bush. So I take only pictures of the part of the elephant carcass.

We head out to a game drive to see elephants, gerenuks, lots of birds. On the way to the Voi gate we find a herd of 30, 35 young elephants, orphans of the David Sheldrick Foundation, they eat calmly in front of the road.

We go to the Lugard Falls in the north, on the Galana River, in this area there should be the most of the animals, according to our guidebook. What Guidebook? Along the way we see lots of buffalo, more elephants, but directly on the river only a few hippos and a single waterbuck, which crosses the river on the low water bridge.

After a picknick lunch at the river we drive to the Aruba Dam, here it has the most animals, of course, Elephants and African Fish Eagle, which sits on a small termite mound for hunting.

Back at the campsite plenty of elephants walk around us. It is amazing how close one gets to the animals, you can see every hair, see them eat, chew. The little ones play and come even closer, while the larger ones keep some distance, 5, 6 meters. I am well camouflaged in the bush and the animals do not perceive me.

In the evening we start again a big fire, the stream of mini-buses has decreased, the lion has not shown. The caretaker sais, he would not come anymore, because of the smell of the carcass. That's right, he stinks allready. Let's see, nearby the hyena howl, they are more intrusive now than it yesterday. But the caretakers theory is probably not quite right, we repeatedly hear the lion yell loud and growl brutal, later he fights with the hyenas, he probably don't want to give up yet.

149 km, 6 hours, 30°, sunny
U.S. $ 60 at the Public Campsite Ndololo, Tsavo East National Park, near Voi, plus U.S. $ 100 park fee and 300 for the car KSH

Tags: Tsavo West National Park, Ndololo, Voi Gate, Lion, Elephant, Aruba Lodge, Aruba Dam, David Sheldrick Foundation

Highlight Gallery (25.6. and 26.6.2011)

Thursday, 29 September 2011

Day 80 – 24.6.2011 - From Tsavo West to Tsavo East – sleeping with a lion at the campsite

We do not expect much not, because the guide refers to the Tsavo East as less accessible, it will be less animals to see, the whole will be bushier. All the more surprised we are when we see directly after the Voi gate, open landscape, populated with - the legendary red elephants of Tsavo elephants. That looks great!

There are loops over loops along the Tsavo East River and the elephants are everywhere and eat, plus there are buffalo, antelope and, again, a new species. Gerenuks, gazelles, imagine that they want to be giraffes, they have a terribly long neck and prefer to eat in the highest parts of the bushes, ie where other small antelope can not reach and giraffes do not want eat, an ecological niche. All in all, we have the feeling that the author of the guide book was in the wrong parks, so different are the descriptions.

At some point, we are hungry, it is after 2co'lock and we make our way to the Ndololo camp site. There is a Cartaker and he directs us energetically on the eastern edge of the camp site, although we are the only guests, a little later we find out why, on the other side is a dead elephant, together with the lion, who has killed it in the past night.

I do quick two photos of the really nasty-looking guy, there must have been a spectacle in the morning when the rangers at the KWS (Kenya Wildlife Services) removed the tusks of the 6 or 7 years old elephants. The huge male lion is not ready to give up his prey, of course, because he has to eat for a week.

The Caretaker brings a wheelbarrow full of wood, because of the elephants, we should keep the fires burning all night. This seems also useful, it is not one tree, where you can not see the traces of rubbing of the elephants, even the one underneath which we build our tent is colored red.

A game drive we don't need any more, the elephants come to the camp site, also waterbuck, impala and, of course, mini buses, all want the lion seen on the other side and go right past us and at the one or other time we are also photographed, especially by the Japanese.

While we prepare dinner, an elephant comes down to the tent, he rubs in detail at the next tree and then calmly walkes past us on the camp site, even though the fire does not interest him. Fortunately, the elephants in Tsavo are very peaceful. When it gets dark, the queue of mini buses ends, the Caretaker disappears and we are alone with our lion.

Before we go to bed, we heat the fire again, but the night is quiet, we hear only the distant howling hyenas, but the lions will not bother us.

Km 160, 8 hours, 28° cloudy
U.S. $ 60 on the Public Campsite Ndololo, Tsavo East National Park, near Voi
U.S. $ 100 to park entrance and 300 KSH for the car

Tags: Ndololo, Tsavo East National Park, Tsavo, Voi, Tsavo West, KWS, Kenya Wildlife Services

Day 79 - 23.6.2011 Pictures

Link zum deutschen Reisebericht Afrika - Coast to Coast - Meet the Oceans 2011

Day 79 – 23.6.2011 Tsavo West National Park

Well, that was a bit of a letdown, we only saw four elephants throughout the day. The guide book says that the western part of the park is better to see the animals, easier accessible and much more interesting than the Tsavo East National Park. Ok lets see.....

On a bad road we travel some times from the Mtito Andei Gate to the Chyulu Gate, there we have breakfast and take a look at Public Campsite and at the Sheitani Lava Flow. We may want to camp there one night.

After breakfast at the gate, we explore Mzima Springs, where most of Mombasas drinking water comes from. The underwater Hide is quite nice, 5 Hippos can be seen in the distance, nothing much interesting. Self-sustaining tourista seems to be rare here, we can only eat out of the lunch box, it is not it a real picnic spot.

Two bridges on Tsavo River are broken, which means we are only limited to the places where one would almost expect wildlife. But it is always late and we are hungry. Apart from us, we see almost no other tourists. On the way to the Rhino enclosure we discover a new species, Beisa Oryx, which are slightly smaller than our South African Oryx and have funny pompoms on the ears. We will see more rare species like Rothschild giraffes, Southern Ground Hornbills and a Bateleur Eagle.

As the miles drag on, we have only half an hour to discover the Rhino Sanctuary, no chance to see Black Rhinos. That works, of course not, and so Beisa Oryx and the Rothschild giraffes are the only highlights of the day. On Tembo Peak we discover climbing elephants and a bright blue Kenya Guinea Fowl in the end of the day.

At 6 o'clock we are back outside again and eat in the Taleh hotel, the inevitable spaghetti bolognese and chicken with rice. All in all there were quite a lot of animals, but nowhere was enough time to look, because there are so many miles to drive and so we are quick to agree that we will change the next day to Tsavo East National Park.

193 km, 12 hrs, 32 ° overcast, humid
1000 KSH in Taleh Guest House, Mtito Andei
Admission to U.S. $ 100, and 300 for the car KSH

Tags: Tsavo West National Park, Tsavo, Taleh Hotel, Mtito Andei, Rothschild Giraffe, Black Rhino, Beisa Oryx, Mzima Springs, Sheitani lava flow, Chyulu Gate

Highlight Gallery (23.6. and 24.6.2011)

Bees Webdesign in Cape Town
The New Africa Juice and Fruits Bar
Our Travel Blog - Meet the Oceans 2011
The German Mobile Cocktailbar in Cape Town

Day 78 22.6.2011 Pictures

Reisebericht durch Afrika - die Coast to Coast - Meet the Oceans Tour 2011

Wednesday, 28 September 2011

Day 78 – 22.6.2011 See more elephants - at Tsavo?

Today we have a short driving day to Tsavo West in front of us, once again we see a large herd of elephants, down one or two loops, then we are at the Kimana gate.

At Emali on the A 109, we buy fruit and vegetables, before we look for an accomodation near the Tsavo West National Park. In the village of Mtito Andei we try our luck in the Tsavo Inn, they want R 400 for a too noisy small double room. Just outside the town, at the Taleh hotel we get a double room for a quarter of the price.

Since we already are there at 13.30, we take a nap and then eat in the Hotel Restaurant rice and chicken. Here one sees only the locals, mostly Muslims, make a quick stop, the shop hums, four "fast food departments" to provide the traveling public with chaepest food. That's something else to gazing?

259 km, 7 hours, 28°, sunny
1000 KSH in Taleh Guest House, Mitito Andei

Tags: Tsavo East, Tsavo West National Park, Mtito Andei, Emali

     Highlight Gallery (21.6. and 22.6.2011)

Day 77 – 21.6.2011 Pictures

Reisebericht durch Afrika - die Coast to Coast - Meet the Oceans Tour 2011

Cape Town Webdesign
The New Africa Juice and Fruits Bar
The German Mobile Cocktailbar in Cape Town
Southerndreams - Leben und Reisen in Südafrika - Reisebericht 2008
Meet the Oceans - 7 Monate durch Afrika 2009 - 2011 - Die Reise geht weiter