Monday, 20 June 2011

Day 74 – 18.06.2011 Rob's Magic Nairobi

We are lucky, Rob's Magic, an Australian company that specializes in off-road shock absorbers, these markets throughout Kenya. Degrees around the corner is a workshop and we have two new, even stronger than the original shock absorbers, installing.

We go to bed early, we know the track in the Amboseli National Park so now and want to go by 4 clock, so we are at 9 in the park. Whether our string of bad luck will last much longer?

Km 12, 26°, humid, sunny
KSH 1200 at Jungle Junction, Nairobi

Tags: Rob's Magic, Nairobi, Kenya, Jungle Junction, Amboseli National Park

Link zum deutschen Afrika-Reisebereicht von BeeTee und Fred

Day 73 – 17.6.2011 Amboseli and back

We leave at 10 o’clock after a short shopping session in the Nakumatt Supermarket in Nairobi, there are indeed only 200 km to drive and the majority is on tarmac. By 3 o’clock we are in Namanga, a border town between Kenya and Tanzania. On the ATN there are Kenyan shillings and U.S. dollars. Wow, they're probably all set for the tourists?

We go ahead, and turn left into the Amboseli National Park, the Gravel Road is not bad, in fact the gravel road is very good and there’s no traffic, just the Maasai ride their bicycles through the dry land. Shortly after the turn, it makes a loud, well known noise, SHIT ... the shock absorber jumped out again. But we are lucky, the rubber boot, this is not even touched.

We routinely take the shock absorber out again, while the Maasai are around us, gossiping. Then it goes back to Nairobi at crawling speed. Yes you can run even 200 km without shock absorbers with the fully loaded car, this is NOT a problem. AUTSCH!

Of course we got into Nairobi at the thickest rush hour traffic. By 8 o’ clock we're only halfway through and buy us a pizza. At JJ's we sit with a glass of red wine, quickly set up the tent and go to bed. What a frustrating day.

352 km, 10 hrs, 26 °, cloudy, sunny, humid
KSH 1200 at Jungle Junction, Nairobi

Tags: Amboseli, Namanga, Kenya, Tanzania, Maasai, Nairobi, Jungle Junction, Nakumatt

Cape Town Webdesign
The New Africa Juice and Fruits Bar
The German Mobile Cocktailbar in Cape Town
Southerndreams - Leben und Reisen in Südafrika - Reisebericht 2008
Meet the Oceans - 7 Monate durch Afrika 2009 - 2011 - Die Reise geht weiter

Day 72 – 16.6.2011 Nairobi - bad luck or good luck?

Today, it turns out that our starter battery, which has been repaired a few days ago in Narok, is broken, so we need a new one.
I am so frustrated, that I only take pictures fron a little Chalaeleon in the garden. The guys from the camp can't tell me the species, it will bring bad luck and it is seen in relationship with death!

Fortunately, the battery shop is not far  from the Nakumatt supermarket and so I go shopping, while the new battery is installed.

The rest of the day we spend in the Jungle Junction with routine tasks, updating websites, writing emails and what a luxury, getting our clothes washed in a real washing machine!

7 km, 22 °, cool
KSH 1200 at Jungle Junction, Nairobi

Tags: Narok, Nakumatt, Jungle Junction, Nairobi, Chamaeleon

Link zu Meet the Oceans - Der deutsche Afrika-Reisebericht von Beetee und Fred

Day 71 – 15.6.2011 Finally in Nairobi

We pack up again and again we drive to Nakuru to Mitsubishi. At 8 clock, we are there. The replacement part is already there. This time I don't go in the lobby, but sit down with the computer in the car. Uncomfortable. At 9, an employee rides with his bike over towards the city, I hear the word Rubber Boot. What? A short time later, he's back with a no-name box with a rubber boot. He smiles and points to the car: "rubber boot". So whats wrong with the delivery?

And then it lasts and lasts and lasts. The part where the rubber boot comes on is disapeared in the workshop. "We are fixing the Rubber Boot," which can mean, we fit the part, but also, we are repairing it. At 12 clock I have enough, I let the supervisor come and tell him will leave the store by 1 o'clock, whether with or without the No Name part. I'm not willing to wait for the lunch break again and arrive in the dark in Nairobi.

A short time later, the mechanics are there, that No Name part is a replaced. In record time they have assembled all the parts including fitting of the wheel. The bill is reduced by 2,000 schillings, because of the No Name part, but still we pay 20,000 KSH, about 160 € / R1600.

On to Nairobi. In over 2500 meters we pass the Aberdare National Park. At the top of the pass it is freezing cold and raining. In 3 hours we are there, thanks to our GPS, we quickly find our camp site in Nairobi, the JJ's (Jungle Junction). The traffic is not worser than in Dar es Salaam. The owner of JJ's is a German, Chris, who runs also a motorcycle-car workshop next to the camp site and also has some small rooms. The campsite consists out of small places, we are 2 meters away from our neighbours.

The Jungle Junction is mainly a meeting place for Africa travellers. Whether they cross from the South to North or from North to South, here everybody meets. Information exchange, getting supplies and repairing cars. REPAIRING CARS????? I wanted to leave Nakuru on Monday!

We meet Jerry and Lisa again, they are the last 3 years traveling in Africa and on the way to the UK, we had met them in the Maasai Mara. And we also meet others who we had met on the road in Tanzania in Kilwa Masoko and in the Serengeti and a few days ago at Lake Naivasha. Keni is a village. All they have car problems, well if that is not contagious?

Km 164, 3 hrs, 24°, overcast, rain
KSH 1200 at Jungle Junction, Nairobi

Tags: Nakuru, Mitsubishi, Nairobi, Dar es Salaam, Aberdare National Park, Jungle Junction, JJ's, Lake Naivasha, Maasai Mara, Tanzania, Kenya

Day 70 – 14.06.2011 Black Tuesday at Nakuru

                                                                                       Next day - Finally in Nairobi

Yesterday was Whit Monday, we had realized too late, it was because everybody worked at Mitsubishi, they had promised to order the rubber boot for today. Before we head there, we go to a car wash in Nakuru, all the dirt from the Maasai Mara on the car sticks like cement. At 8:30 we are at the Mitsubishi workshop. We should take out all valuables, because we are not allowed to go into the workshop. How does that work, please? Not at all, they need to work in front of the gate. Bad signs!

I hide myself with a laptop in the lobby, it will take 2, 3 hours. The shock absorber is quickly back. He was fine and told to be strong enough. At 9, the courier comes with the rubber boot, we are happy, a little later, it turns out it's the wrong rubber boot. In the city they can't find a suitable part. At 12 there is a solution, the crack in the rubber boot will be sewn, so we can drive to Nairobi.  

An hour later, the part is back, sewn and glued, but is now lunch time. How as it in Dar es Salaam? Damn. The supervisor is persuading my darling, he will order the part again, until tomorrow morning it should be there. Grrr, another night in the Kivu Retreat. I'm pissed off. With the stiched rubber boot we chug back to the camp site.  

This time, we should at least get a big camp fire. Unfortunately, the worker who is responsible for the camp fire is disapeared until it starts to rain, and it is not just raining, it pours. We eat in the car and are soon in bed, it is moist and clammy. Yuck. 

 Km 22, 28°, humid, rainy KSH 1400 in Kivu Retreat Nakuru  

Tags: Nakuru, Dar es Salaam, Mitsubishi, Maasai Mara, Kivu Retreat, Nairobi 

Day 69 – 13.06.2011 Whit Monday in Nakuru

                                                             Next day - Black Tuesday at Nakuru


With regret, we start at 9 o’clock at the Makalia camp site, although we hear from outside children, dogs and other sounds of civilization, we were up there all alone on the court. In a very slow pace, at least we drive around without  one of the shock absorbers. Again, we find three white rhino, buffalo and zebra dress in the mud, some of the zebra have hardly a mane.  

The weather is beautifu, but we must leave, we must look for a workshop. Nevertheless, we stay until 12 o’clock in the park, after all, we paid a lot of money for it. A Black Rhino we can’t find in that short time.  

For this we need to go to more remote areas (we think) and need time, too bad. In Nakuru, we actually find a Mitsubishi garage, the rubber boot will be ordered for the next day, the shock absorber should then be reinstalled. At the Kivu Retreat near Lake Nakuru National Park gate, we are the only ones on the campsite, there are again a lot of promises but no hot shower and no electricity at the campsite. 

So once again, we make or own hot water and enjoy a Mozambican shower. We go to a restaurant to charge the batteries, it has to offer only warm beer, we just drink our own beer from the fridge cold, not too bad!  

3 km, 3 hrs, 28 °, humid KSH 1400 in Kivu Retreat Nakuru

Tags: Kivu Retreat, Nakuru, Lake Nakuru National Park, Makalia Falls Campsite, Mitsubishi, Narok, Kenia

Sunday, 19 June 2011

Day 68 Pictures

Link zum deutschen Kenia Reisebericht

Privat Safari in Afrika
Cape Town Webdesign
The German Mobile Cocktailbar in Cape Town
Southerndreams - Leben und Reisen in Südafrika - Reisebericht 2008
Meet the Oceans - 7 Monate durch Afrika 2009 - 2011 - Die Reise geht weiter

Day 68 – 12.6.2011 Pelicans and Buffaloes at Lake Nakuru

                                                                        Next day - White Monday at Nakuru - Pics day 68

In the still damp morning fog, we pack up, the destination is Lake Elementeita. If the weather is better, we will visit the Hells Gate National Park on our way back.
After one and a half hours we arrive at Lake Elementeita, a soda lake inhabited by flamingos, it also provides hot springs. We drive to Flamingo Camp, the locals show us the way. The road isn’t much used, there are no car tracks, bad signs! Arrived at the lake we find the beautifully located camp, but there is no one and as after 20 minutes no one shows up we go back to A 104, though with great regret, because the location was fantastic, but if no one is there? 

The weather is better now and so we head to Lake Nakuru National Park, one of the premium parks in Kenya.
Today is Sunday and the gate is “High Life”. Without much hope of solitude we book the Makalia Falls camp site at the other end of the Lake Nakuru National Park, it costs us $ 170 U.S. $, including Camping. Yes there is a shower and running water, no question, I get to hear snippy.

Shortly before 12 we go in there and head for the near by sutuated Acacia picnic site for breakfast. The first loop then leads directly to the lake, not hundreds, thousands of pelicans live there, buffaloes are lying in the mud on the banks or directly in the soda water, a little further we spot thousands of flamingos.

After a pelican and buffalo in the mud photo session, we head towards Makalia Falls camp site. We see many zebras, storks (White Stork, Spoon Billed, Yellow Billed, Saddle Billed Stork), Hammerkops and Egrets, Herons and Lapwings, the Nakuru National Park is a bird paradise.

A short time later we spot the first White Rhinos in the bushes, with luck we may even see Black Rhinos. On Baboon Cliff, we make a short photo stop, an Asian tourist is feeding a baboon with her hand, whether the woman knows well that his fangs are longer and sharper as a lion?

Again we see some white rhinos, we come to a total of five. We already make plans to stay a day longer as the sky itself tightens and a violent storm begins to rage. Great. Then it suddenly makes a loud noise, no, we are not struck by lightning, but the only a few days previous built in shock absorber simply popped out. We take him out in the rain, hopefully the lions have no desire for a walk.

The removal is quite good, but it is clear the shock absorber cutted one of the Rubber Boots. Provisionally, means the African way we repaire it, wrapping it with plastic wrap and secureing it with cable ties. Without the shock absorber, we continue to creep, it is 3 o’ clock, of course, it has stopped raining, a few meters further, we discover a single lioness. Shes yawning. Did she see us?

Through a huge herd of buffalo we drive to the camp site, which is besieged by more than 100 baboons, we are not alone.
But alone with the baboons. We will set up tent and make a good fire. From the tap, theres coming NO water. There are two modern Baboon prooved cocks and three showers, but they are dirty. We use our own drinking water to wash ourselves, the sun slowly goes down and it is fresh.

After another heavy rain at least the Baboons have disappeared. The fire still burns, but there is only a cold supper. As it goes dark on the hill behind us something moves, in the last evening light  the buffaloes pass by. They are at the campsite, standing we are amazed with our drinks on the bullbar and 100 or more buffalo spread before us on the lawn, they are not more than 10 meters away, eat, chase each other, we see only their sihluettes. It is fascinating to watch the spectacle. The buffalo to move slowly down the waterfall. Eventually they are gone, without recognising us, it's quiet again and we go to bed, the Lake Nakuru National Park is indeed something special.  

Km149, 6 hours, 23 ° and sunny rain
$ 50 at the Makalia Campsite in Lake Nakuru National Park
U.S. $ 120 Park fees for 24 hours (single entry)

Tags: Makalia Falls Camp Site, Lake Nakuru National Park, Lake Elementeita, Kenya, Acacia Picnic Site

Southerndreams - Leben und Reisen in Südafrika - Reisebericht 2008 Meet the Oceans - 7 Monate durch Afrika 2009 - 2011 - Die Reise geht weiter

Day 67 – 11.06.2011 Rainy weather – Isn’t it dry season in Kenya?

                                                  Next day - Pelikans and Buffaloes at Lake Naivasha

We had so much bad luck with the weather, again a long time in the morning it is cloudy. So we skip both, boat trip and visit to the Hells Gate National Park. We have some entertainment on the campsite, a large group of students arrives. Only against 2 o'clock we make a short drive to the Lake Naivasha, we see flamingos, some bucks, zebras, giraffes, buffalo, nothing earth shattering.

As soon as we start to braai, it begins to rain. We have our dinner in the car and go to bed early, after having had some Campsite TV, Student life on weekend was on the program!

38 km, 27 °, cloudy, rainy,
KSH 1000 in Fish Eagle Inn, Lake Naivasha

Tags: Kenya, Hells Gate National Park, Fish Eagle Inn, Lake Naivasha

Saturday, 18 June 2011

Day 66 – 10.6.2011 At Lake Naivasha

We have breakfast in Kim's Villa Lodge in Narok and make our way to Lake Naivasha. Before we visit the only supermarket of Narok. This is a real culture shock, in this shop there is ANYTHING, even yogurt. Such a choice I would not expect here. With some effort, we store the groceries in the car.

The landscape changes completely as we reach the East African Rift Valley, suddenly everything is green, there are fields on the slopes of the volcanoes and its green – green, it looks like a picture book. No comparison to the bleak landscape that predominated until Narok. We drive past the Ol Donyo Nyuki crater, then we turn left to the lakes. The area is like out of a film.   
Arrived at Lake Naivasha, we pass dozens of greenhouses, from the Naivasha area the most roses are sent from Kenya to Germany or to Europe. We rattle off four Lake Camp Sites, until we find one that has power, both batteries are still not fully charged. At the Fish Eagle Inn, we put up the tent.

The weather is moderate, luckily it's not raining, we'll see how it is tomorrow, because we want to go to Hells Gate National Park, located just 5 kilometers from the lake, and we plan a boat trip on Lake Naivasha, there are an incredible number of birds, including African Fish Eagle, which are baited with fish bait to take pictures of them.

The distinctive cies of the birds are widely heard over the lake, plus there is marabou, strutting around, hippos are grunting very close, the striking scenery of fever acacia gives the place a completely alien look.

144 km in 4 hr, 28 ° cloudy,
KSH 1000 in Fish Eagle Inn, Lake Naivasha

Tags: Fish Eagle Inn, Narok, Naivasha, Lake Naivasha, Hells Gate National Park, Fish Eagle