Wednesday, 27 April 2011

Day 17- 22.4.2011 Pictures

                                                                   Next day - Baobab Beach Camp Vilankulo


Day 17 - 22.4.2011 Death on the road

                                            Next day - Baobab Beach Camp Vilankulo - Images day 17


A long driving day takes us to Vilankulo, a "distinguished" small town  directly at the Indian Ocean. Today is Good Friday. Except that at all ATMs are crowds of people (like every Friday, Friday = payday) and more pedestrians are traveling along the highway than usual, we notice nothing different. In other African countries would see more people with Sunday clothes.

On the way towards Inhambane, the contrast is clearly to be seen again. A family lives in a straw hut on the dunes, behind that their personal dumping site, then the family cemetery, then the road. For decades nothing has changed. People live on the street. A little further there was a traffic accident. Even television is there. Later we learn that a man was killed by a speeding truck. The truck stands still right beside the highway, and around are spectators, like everywhere in the world. An hour later, nothing more will be on display. A grave stone more. A human life is nothing on a country road in Africa.

In a small town we see a truck, fully loaded with well-dressed people, they are singing. Why are they probably on the move? I take a photo, they smile and sing even more cheerful. Today's route takes us from the millions of coconut palms area around Inhambane over the Tropic of Capricorn into the land of baobab trees.

In Vilankulo there is business as usual. Only PEP and the Taurus Supermarket are closed. We drive along he Sand Ridge, towards Vilankulo Restcamp. It is empty (where all South Africans, who passed us the whole day with their convoys?) And run down. Straw huts, bungalows, one or the other villa. A Backpackers. The bar on the beach is empty. But the place has something.

The Baobab Beach Camp (it actually has a huge Baobab) is beautifully green and terraced, the rest rooms are newly renovated, small straw-hut invite the backpackers to stay. Overlander form U.K., German backpacker, a British au pair on a weekend leave and French tourists with arented Kea car with roof tent meet the locals at the bar for a beer or two. It seems, we left the fishing tourists behind us….


Km 337, 6 hours, 28 degrees, rainy and humid, cloudy night

** 400 Meticais in Baobab Beach Camp Vilankulo


Next day - Baobab Beach Camp Vilankulo - Images day 17

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Southerndreams - Leben und Reisen in Südafrika - Reisebericht 2008
Meet the Oceans - 7 Monate durch Afrika 2009 - 2011 - Die Reise geht weiter

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Day 16 - 21.4.2011 On the run…. more pictures

                                                Next day - Baobab Beach Camp - Vilankulos

Day 16 - 21.4.2011 On the run….

                                            Next day - Baobab Beach Camp - Vilankulo - Images day 16





In Mozambique, almost all the towns that lie on the sea, are reached by random streets. We go back a few kilometers to the EN1. In front of the Xai Xai Complexo Touristico, like last night, young men are standing, offering everything. We find a church near a cell tower they have probably a very short line to the top?

In the middle of Xai Xai, we see a kind of public park or arena, whose walls are painted beautifully. This type of modern art can be seen more often. There is much construction in Mozambique, but degenerate and decay, the old colonial buildings. Old beside new, straw hut next to hotel, tin shed next to skyscraper, stands on every spot on the street. If a bus stops at an intersection, 10, 15, 20 sellers run and offer their goods. Today especially oranges are on sale today. Bananas are also popular. We often see children who throw themselves fearlessly into the fray, right on the EN 1, they often have no other opportunity to earn a living.

The plan today is to go to Zavora Beach. The area is tropical, it's humid. Shortly before 1 o'clock, we're on the road to the Beach., That was a short riding day. At the gate of the Zavora Beach Lodge already 10 South African vehicles are parked, we have seen convois like this several times today, a Toyota, for example, behind that a trailer, than another trailer with a boat, jet ski or quad. Well, thank you. At the gate, no one has any idea of ​​a price. The boss resides above the restaurant on the dune.

The facility is run down, the ablutions a nightmare. Then comes the fun, it will cost 120 Rand per person. We had been told by email 80 Rand (low season price, of course, is no longer valid). The owners, older South Africans, treat their employees like serfs. Well, it's still so early. Again we see a spectacular Light House, which we unfortunately can not visit. And back again we jolt along the deep-red dirt road to the EN 1.

Two hours later we arrive in Inhambane. The weather is moderate, but the place is a dream for every photographer. Here I could easily spend two days. Old dhows lie at the long pier. Here you can take the ferry to Maxixe, it is across Inhambane, unfortunately there is no car ferry. Grand villas are interspersed with a mosque, an antiquated gas station, a vehicle repair workshop, around which the vehicle wrecks pile up in treble damages. A huge cinema, whether here still films will be shown? We refuel and continue on to Tofo, the beach of Inhambane. At Tofo, you will meet mainly Backpackers, one of them is Bamboozi, in the cute camp we pitch our tent under the palm trees. We are the only campers.

The restaurant and diving school are perched behind the dunes. The only white people here are the tourists. The camp is not very new and could probably stand a renovation. But nothing to compare with the previous camp. We go to the beach, unfortunately 10 minutes too late for the sunset. The restaurant is awesome. A dream place. Because we are tired, we do not have a drink at the bar. We enjoy a baked feta cheese with pasta and salad and drink our own tequila orange.  

Km 346, 7 hours, 30 °, humid,
820 Meticais in * Bamboozi Backpackers


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Deutscher Afrika Reisebericht

Monday, 25 April 2011

Day 15 - 20.4.2011 Pictures





Southerndreams - Leben und Reisen in Südafrika - Reisebericht 2008
Meet the Oceans - 7 Monate durch Afrika 2009 - 2011 - Die Reise geht weiter

Day 15 - 20.4.2011 More Pictures

                                                                            Next day- to XaiXai Beach - Montegu


Day 15 - 20.4.2011 Elephants? Yes, but where?

                                                                                 Next day - to XaiXai Beach - Images day 15


We want to drive about 300 km to compensate the lost days in port. St. John's. So we are up by 5 clock, leave at 5:30. 2 hours we need for the 40 kilometers to the gate of the Maputo Elephant Reserva. The early hour pays out, we see lots of little bucks, hippos are still on their way ashore and we even find very fresh droppings of - yes, elephants. But, we do not see them, too bad.

At 7:30 we are at the gate, what we need to open ourselves, the young lady at the reception desk looks sleepy. Before risking discussions, because we are driving around so early, we act as if we do not see her and drive on.
On gravel roads we reach Maputo.

At the bridge over the Rio Maputo is a barrier and a police check, but we are so early that no one here wears a uniform. Jokingly one tries to make us to believe that on this side of the bridge no uniforms are allowed. We write our details into another thick book, I am keen to know in how many thick books we have written already in Africa, since we are here, should be hundreds already.

Up to the ferry, the road is a gravel road, consisting of more potholes than you can imagine. The rather small ferry costs 270 Meticais (+ - R 60, about 10 cars fit on it). We are the last to be squeezed on it. Un fortunatly, there are 100 soldiers on the ferry and I can hardly take pictures. After 10 minutes we are in Maputo. However, we do not look at the city, we drive through only. Quickly we are on the EN1, which starts in Maputo.

Then its sdtop and go on the road, the side strips are made new. Right and left of the road one small shop glues to the next. There is EVERYTHING from fresh bread, cool drinks, airtime to charcoal, building materials, cabinets, doors, curtains, everything. There are car repair shops, large shops, small shops, welding, tires, wheels, Tyre Repair of course, PEP and Shoprite supermarkets. Everywhere women are sitting by the roadside, to sell something, bananas, cashews and grenadillas just have season, also tomatoes and potatoes. And of course, chickens. The women also sell sweets, chips, lollies, all in small and very small amounts. The Som eguys or offers fresh goods from Europe (old cloth). There are also new clothes on sale.

A special thing in Mozambique are delicious bread and rolls, you get everywhere and always the freshest one, a relic of the Portuguese past. On the way we get coffee, rolls and two croisants, mhhhh delicious.

Every few hundred meters on the street you see strange "trees" standing, festooned with plastic bags, here you can buy fresh cashews. The seller, oddly enough, mostly young men (usually the women are the sellers), come fearlessly in the middle of the road with two bags of cashews in their hand and jump aside at the last moment. Of the 20 determines traffic controls out of Maputo, we once stopped and friendly greeted further, after we held a brief chat.

We go to XaiXai ,the first tourist resort on the coast, then we turn to the beach of XaiXai. In the Montague Rest Camp we are lucky and get hold of a pitch not very high on the hillside.
The camp is built into the dunes and each centimeter is used. It is under South African leadership, clean, and the bar has stunning views over the Indian Ocean.

As everywhere in Mozambique during the Easter holidays are here mainly fishing tourists from South Africa on the move. We need to hurry.
We are still 2 days behind our schedule.

With an ice-cold 2M beer and fresh bread, the sausages taste really good. After dinner we enjoy the view from the terrace of the bar, the full moon shines over the Indian Ocean, in the bar the owner of the camp is telling young backpackers a farce of his life, while the Stones sound from the speakers.



Km 341, 9 hours, 27 ° Partly cloudy, 765 Meticais in Montague * Rest Camp, Xai Xai Beach 


Next day - to XaiXai Beach - Images day 15 

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Saturday, 23 April 2011

Day 14 - 19.4.2011 More Pictures

                                                                                      Next day - to XaiXai Beach

Link zum deutschen Afrika Reisebericht

Day 14 - 19.4.2011 Offroad into Maputaland

                       Next day - Maputo Elephant Reserve  - Images Maputo Elephant Reserve



After a warm goodby from Lynette at the Kosi Bay Inn we head a few kilometers to the borderpost to Mozambique. Until the border the road is tarred and new and does look like a highway. From South Africa we are quickly stamped out, the import permit for the car to Mozambique is completed in a few seconds, costs 30 Meticais (+ - R 7). We have already obtained our visas in Cape Town, they are stamped also in seconds. Not 10 minutes and we are over the border.

After that, the road turns into a sandy 4x4 track, many paths run through the deserted, idyllic landscape. We are glad to have the GPS device. The Reserve does have a lot of funny signs that warn of the elephants, but unfortunately we don’t see one of them. It's uncertain how many elephants still can be found in the Reserve.

At the park entrance gate, we pay a total of 800 Meticais, which are about 20 €.
It's fun to drive a TRUE 4x4 track. Only few places are really deep sand. We drive around some of the lakes, but up to a few hippos and various birds of the area is empty. Really EMPTY, a few relics testify to the existence of the elephants.

By 1 o’clock, we are at the ocean, at Ponta Milibangalala. The Tracks 4 Africa map promises a secluded camp opportunity for 3, 4 cars, this is true. Directly behind the last dune a small area is beaten in the dense bush, BUT, the whole thing 30 times! Here are 30 Campsites, sometimes larger, sometimes smaller.
We pick a camp site with open air. We build up quickly, then we explore the area.

A shower is not existing, only a well with brackish water, but even if they would provide a shower, we would rather shower behind our tent. Specially if the facilities would look like the longdrop toilet. The toilet is densely populated, Dung Beettles who eagerly roll their balls from the Shit ....
Uahhh this is disgusting. And it is the only one toilet here. Good that we have our spades.

We take a break in the hammock, then go on a little stroll on the beach. At the campfire we observe the approaching full moon and listen to the nearby Indian Ocean. Whilst the holidays in South Africa didn’t yet start, this is a really beautiful secluded place and we can’t hear and see anything from the neighbours.


Km 106, 6 hours, sunny to cloudy,
Camping 200 Meticais in the Maputo Elephant Reserve, Milibangalala Camp Site No 6
Admission Met 600 (200, 200, 200 for the car)

Tags: Kosi Bay Inn, South Africa, Mozambique, Tracks 4 Africa, Maputo Elephant Reserve, Ponta Milibangalala, Elephant, Hippo


Next day - Maputo Elephant Reserve  - Images Maputo Elephant Reserve

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Afrika-Reisebericht Mozambique

Day 13 - 18.04.2011 Goodby St. Lucia

                                                                                               Next day - Into Maputaland


 
Today we wanted explore the St. Lucia Wetlands again, specially Kosi Bay, but the weather is still so cloudy, that we change our plans and take it easy. We pack our things and chug from Mkhuze Game Reserve to Hluhluve Village to make a few last shoppings in South Africa. The road is very quiet.

In the Kosi Bay Inn we find a nice place, the owner Lynette and Hannes have been here for one year. Its situated just before the border of Mozambique and they care very well for their guests. Fortunately, the weather got better towards the evening and we can comfortably grill our chicken breast fillets, drink a nice red wine and sit a little while on the camp fire.

Km 212 in 4 hours, 25 ° Partly cloudy,
R 120 on the campsite of the Kosi Bay Inn

Tags: St. Lucia, Kosi Bay, Mkhuze Game Reserve, Kosi Bay Inn, South Africa, Mozambique...





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